Ceramic art of every hue
Watercolors, acrylics, abstracts and still lifes cover the walls, and ceramic pottery, small sculptures and stands carrying beaded jewelry sit on display tables. The back patio serves as a café where you can grab a cup of gourmet coffee while admiring what can only be described as a hanging garden of oversized porcelain tear drops.
I come across the intertwining of history and art often. For example, a brilliant, elaborate mural of Maracatu – the embodiment of the African spirit – is painstakingly painted on the wall of a building erected centuries ago. Works by Brazilian artists such as Vila Nova decorate the lobby of Pousada do Amparo, a hotel whose quaint rooms and rustic kitchen harken back to Olinda’s early years. (The owner, Bento Campelo, provides my favorite quote about the city’s cultural push: “Olinda is pressing art deep into the souls of ordinary people.”)
Olinda Mayor Renildo Calheiros with Calvin Young of SoulOfAmerica
Not surprisingly, Mayor Renildo Calheiros’ expansive office is set in a colonial building whose cornflower blue walls exhibit numerous pieces of art. A collection of paintings by Olinda Artist Bajado depict Carnival dancers and religious rites in prominent colors of red, blue and black.
Mayor Calheiros tells us that Olinda is known as Brazil’s First Capital of Culture. “We have a rich, intense sense of culture,” he says, citing “Olinda, Arte em Toda Parte” as one demonstration of the fact.
Translated as “Olinda Art is Everywhere,” this annual November festival features concerts, dance performances, video showings, poetry readings and, of course, art. True to the event’s name, artwork can be found in bars, restaurants, hotels, inns, museums, churches in addition to the ateliers.
Nightlife on the streets of Olinda
And art can also be found in many boutiques and shops, such as Artes do Imaginario Brasileiro, which offers a vast array of paintings, sculptures, statues, masks and clothing. A shopping break comes in handy because Olinda is blanketed across seven hills, and strolling its streets can give you a workout.
Emporio do Carnival is an unusual retail outlet because it sells primarily the colossal puppet costumes that partiers wear during Carnival. Step inside, and you’re dwarfed by wall-to-wall dolls, clowns and what look like storybook characters. Just like celebrations in Rio and Salvador, party-goers from around the world take to the streets of Olinda in a mass of fanciful, colorful humanity. But unlike the others, this city’s Carnival is free, and everyone participates. More than a million celebrants attend.
Artist celebrating life in Olinda
Pernambuco Carnival celebrations will blast Frevo music, which has its origins in the African-Brazilian martial art Capoeira. It’s characterized by a feverish rhythm played by brass bands. Dancers gyrate, leap and twist while twirling colored parasols.
Frevo is just one example of the African influence in Pernambuco, where many say the culture of the Motherland is more pervasive than in other parts of Brazil. I notice the touch of Africa throughout Olinda.
The Church of the Rosary of Black Men was built by slaves who were forbidden to worship with whites. They hosted their own religious gatherings called “Congos” here.
And, the curves of Olinda’s ubiquitous red roof tiles were made from slaves shaping the pre-hardened, unmolded clay across their thighs.
I see a life-sized black-as-night rag doll wearing a dress of purple flowers sitting in the window of a lavender gift shop called Portal dap Artep. Her skin tone is at one end of a spectrum of complexions I notice; as in the rest of the country, Olinda is home to sisters and brothers of every skin color imaginable – from light cream to smooth obsidian.
On more than one occasion, I hear that Pernambuco is closer to West Africa’s Senegal - 2,000 miles away - than it is to Southern Brazil.
Playing soccer among the ruins of Olinda
Other sites to see in Olinda include Riberia Market with its abundance of artwork and handicrafts; the Museum of Contemporary Art, showcasing many artists from all over the world; and the Church of St. Savior of the World, Alto da Se. Located at the highest point in the city, the church is steps away from the view that evoked my initial awe of this city. Seeing Olinda from this perspective makes you fully appreciate how it got its name.
The restaurants and hotels (pousadas) to consider when planning a visit to Olinda include:
Beijupira (a sister location is in Porto de Galinhas)
Rua Saldanha Navy, s / n.
Upper Town (beside the Church of Mercy)
Phone: 55-81-3439 6691
From the street, you descend steep and rocky stairs (the feint of heart can take a glass elevator down) into what likes like a forest before entering the quaint dark-wood dining room of Beijupira. A glass wall, framed by more trees, overlooks Olinda, providing an eye-catching view of red tiled roofs, abundant vegetation and the glistening Atlantic Ocean.
Beach fronting the Atlantic Ocean
The treehouse-evoking restaurant takes its name very seriously: All fish on menu are Beijupira, a warm-water fish once strictly reserved for royalty. This is early in my trip when I foolishly thought I didn’t like fish, and so I order the Honey Shrimp with Papaya Rice, which is excellent.
Maison do Bomfim
Rua do Bonfim, 115
As with many restaurants and hotels in Olinda, eating in Maison do Bomfim is like dining in an art gallery. The brightly lit restaurant specializes in French cuisine, and I order an usual combination – steak in a blue cheese sauce. It was delicious. In its “Best of Recife Guide,” the Brazilian news and feature magazine Vejá listed Maison do Bonfim as serving the “Best French Food” in the area.
Hotel dining room featuring custom pottery and art
Patua Delicias Do Mar
Rua Bernardo Vieira de Melo, 17
Riverside, Historic Site of Olinda/PE
Art is everywhere at Patua, most impressively in the presentation of the food. Pull out your cameras when the wait staff serves dishes such as Salmon in Passion Fruit and Capers Cream served with Manioc Puree. I order the Fried Cod with Pumpkin Rice, Caramelized Onions and Mashed Yucca. The meal, its components stylishly stacked, is as delicious as it is striking. A large window affords a view of the beach that adds more beauty to the dining experience.
Hotel 7 Colinas
Ladeira do São Francisco, 307
This pousada (hotel or guest house) is named for the seven colinas (hills) of Olinda. The rooms are large and simple, but the property’s main draw is its sloping landscape of verdant tropical foliage. Hotel 7 Colinas resembles a nature reserve. With fanciful statues throughout the grounds, acrylic paintings gracing the walls and pottery displayed in the lobby, the hotel is a testament to the City of Olinda’s strong dedication to the arts.
Av. Ministro Marcos Freire 681
Bairro Novo – Olinda/PE
Hotel Costeiro’s location makes it a convenient choice for inexpensive accommodations. It is literally a stone’s throw from the beach and just a 15-minute walk to Olinda’s historic district. The lobby is bright and spacious, and the hotel provides simple rooms, some of which offering exquisite views of surf and sand. But the room we were shown was small and dark. Ask for one of the superior or luxury rooms overlooking the water.
Hotel Pousada Sao Francisco
Rua do Sol, n 127
Phone: 55-81- 3429 2109
With its top floor affording a sweeping view of the ocean, the Hotel Pousada Sao Francisco is a relaxing property with plenty of outdoor space in which to relax. The rooms we tour are small, but cozy. Unique to the property is a large gazebo, from whose thatched roof hang orange, green and purple hammocks.
Pousada do Amparo
Rua do Amparo, 199
The word “charming” comes to mind when you step into this pousada. The dark wood and colonial furniture make the lobby cozy and inviting, a nice place to sit and take in the many examples of Brazilian art on display. The pousada’s primary feature – besides spacious rooms and a large buffet – is the park-like setting in the back. It looks like a tropical garden with a restful view of the ocean.
Pousada dos Quatro Cantos
Rua Prudente Morais, 441
Phone: 55-81- 3429-0220
This inn is known as “the Wedding Cake” because its white façade and elaborate architecture remind you of such a confection. The property retains the feel of the private residence it once was with an airy lobby and comfy sofas and chairs that evoke the living room of a comfortable home. During Carnival, the pousada’s wide balconies are prime real estate for viewing the festivities.
Near Pousada dos Quatro Cantos is Estacao Quatro Cantos, the art gallery we toured; the two establishments have the same owner.
Estacao Quatro Cantos
Rua Bernardo Vieira de Melo, 134